For SS20, dystopian and post-apocalyptic narratives have catapulted its way into the fashion scene, being a primary source of inspiration for many designers this season. However, for MAISON MARGIELA’s SS20 co-ed show, JOHN GALLIANO went to war.

Children are protesting for climate and parliaments are being shut down, whilst elections are rigged and infiltrated by other countries. It’s been 80 years since the last world war started and for SS20, JOHN GALLIANO revisits and reinterprets the iconic stylistic traits of this era with dissected versions of military uniforms in thick tactile green and grey tweed, partnered with featherlight organza trenchcoats. John Galliano is the perfect fit for Maison Margiela and has made the house into his very own sandbox where he continues to play with reformation and functionality for the forthcoming season. Mushroom and envelope hats completed the looks, while recontextualised nurse uniforms reigned high in Maison Margiela’s cosplay fantasy of war attire.

Maison Margiela has always been a rebel in the industry of fashion and with the SS20 collection, John Galliano proves yet again that he is a master in his craft with couture-like references through the dramatic corsetry and innovative use of antique fabrics paralleled with this season hero, honeycomb meets bubblewrap style perforated coats. The SS20 collection travelled through history to depict what war in 2019 would look like through Maison Margiela’s army and nurses.


Written by Madeleine Holth for LOVE Magazine

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