For over 50 years, the artistic and at times unorthodox narrative of COMME DES GARÇONS has generated an abundance of memorable moments in modern fashion history, from ‘Broken Brides’ to the Met exhibition – the element of performance is always present in the many outlets of Comme des Garçons and yesterday’s show at Salle Pleyel was no exception. It’s been 364 days since REI KAWAKUBO announced that she would no longer be exhibiting her collections in abstract form, however, Rei Kawakubo is still Rei Kawakubo and she designs to the beat of her own drum. The collection featured memories of past voluminous creations juxtaposed with new and innovative ideas like her cut-out tailoring.
For SS20, the Japanese designer flirted with the ideas of commerciality, by incorporating the brand logo into four different ensembles, two of which was covered in fringes with the iconic logo being used almost as a monogram. The collection also dwelled in neo-tailoring, using gold-detailed brocade and dense silks as primary fabrics in a colour scheme consisting of mint green, royal blue and salmon pink.
Rei Kawakubo is a master at telling stories through her collections, this season offered subtle nods to Lolita culture, especially with her opening looks which featured intricate and exceedingly romantic flower appliqué and dainty frilled socks. Comme des Garçons SS20 appeared on the runway as one of their most decadent and playful collections to date. For SS20 Rei Kawakubo also took a deep dive into a baroque-like treasure chest of antiquated fabrics uniting them with rugged surfaces in a story that looked at the many notions of femininity we’re lucky to be blessed with in 2019. Rei Kawakubo produces art, there is no question about it and her most recent work offered a sense of comfort and relief, knowing that there are still designers out there, creating museum-worthy pieces of cloth that can be worn.
Written by Madeleine Holth for LOVE Magazine