As models glided across the smoke covered vista of the RICK OWENS AW20 runway, it became clear that the brand is a lot more than just dark avant-garde fashion for the artsy kids.
The collection opened with an array David Bowie-inspired asymmetric, one-legged catsuits in delighting hues of moss and turquoise partnered with outerwear in pigments of maroon and sand. Yes, there were your regular black Rick Owens staples too, but following up from previous seasons Rick Owens is, in fact, swimming in unknown waters with his most recent collections. With great risk, comes great reward and through his exploration of unfamiliar colours usually known to the Rick Owens manifesto, he is able to convert new and exciting ideas like seen today at his most recent fashion show.
With a finger on gender and non-binary identities, the collection offered a much more sleek and structured silhouette in opposed to his wild and voluminous collections in the past. The collection looked at femininity and elegance in oppose to extreme avant-gardism, Rick Owens took us to the club for this season, with growing shoulder pads, that ended up in a near Grace Jones-style width. It was clubwear first and foremost paralleled with blurred genders and heaps of personality.
Rick Owens isn’t just a spectacle of art and absurdity, its functionality too, which may have been forgotten if you have seen his shows in the past, where the surrounding elements of sound and performance have sometimes overshadowed the clothes. He is undoubtedly in a league of his own and his piece de resistance? The white and neon yellow reptile leather suit that appeared to be painted and had ventilation eyelet holes on the thighs, not to mention the luxurious black on black piping detailed cashmere coat.