CHRISTOPHER KANE knows good sex, having recently made his debut in the sex toy market with his own vibrator (which is a part of his More Joy collection, a collection that quite literally points a finger to the pleasures of sex.) For his AW20 collection, Christopher Kane paid homage to the creator of the thong, Rudi Gernreich, not to mention clothes for Adam and Eve.

Christopher Kane’s opening looks were difficult to analyse at first, but as the collection perpetuated in front of us, the meaning and message became clear. Christopher Kane was referencing the great Rudi Gernreich through recontextualising the thong and monokini in a ready to wear format and as his print stories came to life his collection came full circle.

Images of Adam and Eve were printed and referenced through Christopher Kane’s most recent collection, which consisted of the ideas of femininity and masculinity juxtaposed through slinky dresses and razor-sharp tailoring. Geometry studies ala Ellsworth Kelly filled the collection with unorthodox shapes and futuristic panelling in nuances of rust, white, black and red. These colours are key when discussing Scottish checks, which are especially meaningful to the Scottish designer, who used these colours in a clever and innovative way this season.

The collection also featured sheer lace, to the point of it almost becoming NSFW, partnered with sharply pleated skirts that created movement in the 60-look collection. For AW20, Christopher Kane also continued his now-iconic manifestation of encapsulated liquids which could be seen as an embellishment to the already exhilaratingly good tailoring and outerwear.

Written by Madeleine Holth for Love Magazine

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