There really isn’t anything that man can’t do, but JONATHAN ANDERSON has a lot on his plate at the moment. He was recently announced as the latest member of the MONCLER GENIUS family, as well as leading the fashion jury at the Hyeres festival this year, not to mention his continuous 10/10 collections at LOEWE. However, the amount of work ahead of him did not cease to affect his latest collection for his eponymous brand.
As Four Tet’s iconic track There is love in you pounded through the speakers, JONATHAN ANDERSON unveiled his latest collection for AW20, which featured extreme shapes, glitter and a whole lot of glamour. Volume is a big trend for AW20 and JW Anderson is not excluding his namesake brand from this trend at all. The collection paid homage to the art of knitting and challenged the antiquated notions of what knitting can become in a conceptual collection like this. For AW20, Jonathan Anderson pushed the boundaries with voluminous frothy gowns in tactile fabrics and his go-to fabric for the season, lurex.
Jonathan Anderson also looked at key signifiers of Victorian dressmaking through bishop sleeves and gigot sleeves for added drama, paralleled with poet shirts. The maximalist dresses appeared as if the model had run away without their crinoline, giving the dresses a weighted hemline that bounced as the models paraded down the runway.
The collection was set in delicate hues of beige, grey and black, matched with correlating earthy tones and then drenched in fuzzy and glimmering textures and fabrics. The highlight of the collection was undoubtedly the mega-oversized leather-lined coats which will be a definite hit for next winter. The holographic fabrics and detailing on the model’s shoulders appeared strange at first, yet as the models walked out for their final walk it all came together – JW Anderson knows precisely what he’s doing and why. He is connecting the dots of femininity and history, pushing the envelope of what modern femininity truly is.
Written by Madeleine Holth for LOVE Magazine