NO.21 has always been, and always will be, a brand high up on the wishlist for cool girls all over the world because that is what ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA does best: he makes cool clothes for cool and confident women. For AW20, Dell’Acqua presented a collection that championed women in love, with sharp, mistress-like silhouettes at the beginning of the show, composed in dark mystical hues of midnight blue, black and sky blue. This idea became even more clear as the collection evolved and presented its body-hugging leather ensembles. The Italians know how to make luxurious fabrics perhaps better than anyone else, and this collection was filled to the rim with thick wools and cashmere surfaces to beat the coming cold, ten months from now.
What truly made the collection special was the broken lace, that appeared to be delicately cut, leaving only fragments of its original form, revealing the model’s skin through its remains. Moreover, it was the intricate safety pin detailing you could see scattered on several of the looks, that set the collection apart. For AW20, Alessandro dell’Acqua created romantic flowers of something as rough and undeniably punk as the safety pin.
Chains also played a big part in No.21’s latest collection, however, some of the pieces did bring back faint memories of BOTTEGA VENETA and JW ANDERSON’S chain detailing from their previous collections, regardless – the chains were not just ornamental, they were broken and torn apart, making them an interesting anecdote to the already mesmerising collection. As the lyrics “Love is a battlefield” pounded through the room, and the collection grew warmer in hues of rust and caramel, the message became clear. Alessandro dell’Acqua had just exhibited the wardrobe of a woman in love, from seduction to unity.