For AW20 ANREALAGE looked at the fundamental building blocks in the modern wardrobe, by constructing every single piece of clothing from a geometric block. Designer Kunihiko Morinaga took the showgoers on a shape-shifting journey through each individual outfit and explored the many borders of a jacket through the construction and deconstruction of a garment.
The collection (unsurprisingly) championed outerwear this season, but down the runway, structural coats and jackets were not what they seemed. The MA-1 bomber jacket was peculiarly feminine in its composition, as it had shed its masculine skin and was now structured with gigot sleeves, a dainty collar and paired with an a-line mini skirt in the same fabric as the jacket. The connotations and signifiers of a bomber jacket, puffer jacket, trench coat and duffle were all disrupted for Anrealage’s AW20 collection, which presented ingenious renderings of familiar outerwear, whilst giving the showgoers an exercise in child’s play and reconstruction.
Looking at geometry as a source of inspiration may seem a bit frivolous in 2020, but Kunihiko Morinaga’s technique and approach for AW20 has resulted in a collection quite out of the ordinary. With every single piece from the collection requiring an IKEA-like form of self-construction, Anrealage invites the wearer into the design process, which you rarely see in the realms of fashion today. The colourful collection relied on familiar shapes and forms, composed in fabrics and prints already known to the fashion crowd this season, like houndstooth, argyle and tweeds. The 30-look collection presented a new approach to fashion design, and as one of the kickstarters for this season’s Paris Fashion Week, it appears that it’s hip to be square.
Written by Madeleine Holth for Love Magazine