Before Kei Ninomiya embarked on a career in fashion, the Japanese designer studied french literature in Japan and for NOIR KEI NINOMIYA’s AW20 collection, it became obvious as the first look stepped out on the runway that the notoriously conceptual designer wanted to shed light on his love of poetry and fairytales for his latest collection.

How does he do it? Even the most experienced fabric specialists will scratch their heads trying to unravel his beguiling reimagination of fabrics. The show opened with an array of blood-red ensembles which appeared to be fabricated carnations, matched with tonal cascading tulle skirts. As the collection grew towards Ninomiya’s favourite colour, black, his textures became even more intricate, with towering mountains of penguin black feathers gliding down the runway as guitar solos echoed through the room like thunder.

Kei Ninomiya also incorporated slashed hair ensembles this season, these looks took us back to cutting our own bangs with kitchen scissors, only this time it worked and it looked sublime, like a structured sierra of luxurious textures. His love for poetry and fairytales came to life through Rapunzel-like pinafore overlays (frizz included) and caged leather macrame prisons embellished with leather bows.

The metal music of the show connected with the collection through safety pin gowns and armour-like tops, whilst finsta plants were used as headdresses. Hairy textures – like tightly coiled curls and loose waves – became dresses that looked like grandiose cotton balls in gradient hues of red, orange and black. The hero of the season? The 10XL knitted dress paired with a crinkled Scottish check skirt. Noir Kei Ninomiya is all about textures, but this season, the collection revolved primarily on fairytales and the mythical creatures within these stories.


Written by Madeleine Holth for Love Magzine


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