HEDI SLIMANE is a master at creating clothes that transcend the aspect of quick turnover trends. His take on CELINE in the post-PHOEBE PHILO and sans accent era isn’t about conveying mind-bogglingly conceptual collections, it harkens back to what Céline Vipiana was originally known for: quintessential Parisian wardrobe staples that you buy once in your life, items of clothing you cherish like a family member.
Hedi Slimane has been designing to the beat of his own drum for years and his Celine AW20 collection was no different. His latest collection looked at french savoir-faire cum ‘70s, that something something that makes you wonder how do the models look so chic in nothing but a pair of jeans and a blazer? The collection was an explosion of pussy-bow shirts and poet shirts that appeared on the runway in graphic prints including polka dot, python and leopard, paralleled with their more expensive siblings in sequins and embroidered cotton.
The 111-look collection could use some editing, however that is not in Hedi Slimane’s nature – he knows what works and what doesn’t. Next to the luxurious velvet that reflected its plush surface from the front row to the last, the collection also featured some unexpected pieces. Hold your horses, crop tops for men and sequinned capri trousers? When it’s Celine it somehow works. Marching band detailing and sequinned flowers outlined the outerwear, as the show came to a close. What truly stood out this season, was Slimane’s decision to not close his show with his most intricate and expensive gown, instead, the designer opted for a sleek daytime velvet tuxedo, paired with wide-leg shorts, a ruffle shirt and a bow tie, truly underlining his vision for the brand he has re-envisioned for the past two years.
Written by Madeleine Holth for LOVE Magazine