At Prada’s AW87 collection, model Kirsten Owen held a tight grip on her coat, clutching it between her fingers across her chest. This type of clutching, or holding on to your garments, is something Prada has reintroduced for the co-designed Raf Simons collections and is something we have seen since their first collection together as of last season. Holding on to your coat becomes a metaphor for AW21 with textures, hand-feel and sound coming together for what can only be described as a perfect ASMR fashion collection.
Prada cut back on flimsy accessories this season, relying on platform shoes and yes, the hyped Prada plaque gloves will be available for women too. The collection worked as a perfect reflection and partner to the menswear collection for AW21, with several of the same styles appearing on the womenswear runway set that remained unchanged from the menswear show. The set too proved that this collection was about a sensory overload of textures, colours and sound.
Tailoring similar to Raf Simons’ AW18 collection with the sleeves yanked up to the shoulders is a part of the new Prada uniform this season, next to deconstructed and oversized bomber jackets, another Raf Simons staple. Through blue pinstripes, purple, navy, black and bright pops of colour the collection felt equally Raf and Miuccia. Archetypical art deco geometric knitwear in bright shades and were presented in the shapes of cardigans and knitted close to body pieces, yes women are encouraged to wear long johns a la Prada this season too.
Feminine versions of the phlox corduroy coat we saw at Prada menswear for AW21 also appeared for women with its thick stripes of corduroy following the silhouette of cocoon coats and classic three-button overcoats. Prada-esque faux fur pieces also arose in the shapes of voluminous coats that danced in the air as the models walked through each room.
There were two key pieces this season that perfectly summarised the collection put forth by Raf and Miuccia, their endless analysis and reinterpretation of the tailored Prada uniform and not to mention next season’s key item, the Prada shawl coat with exposed paillette lining that plays with both sound and hand feel.
Written by Madeleine Holth for The Perfect Magazine